Kyoto

For a touch of authenticity and a lot of out-of-this-world-delicious food, one must take the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo to Kyoto. Put your phone away and look out the window, you might catch Mt. Fuji on a clear day.

Kyoto is a charming city with village vibes, where everyone rides a bike with a big basket overflowing with fresh herbs and greens. It’s a bit more touristy than Tokyo, which means slightly more English (not by much) and a lot more camera-wielding Canadians (love you guys) but that’s to be expected in a place that’s home to more temples than anywhere else in the country. I think 3 — 4 days is more than enough for Kyoto, but others may differ.

Book the bullet train with Klook.
For those wondering if they need a JR Pass, it’s really only necessary if you’re taking the Shinkansen four or more times within a specified time period of 7, 14, or 21 days (don’t quote me on that, as this can change according to the value of the Yen). For a Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka trip, it’s not worth it.

Again, do all the tourist things.
The temples, the shrines, the tea ceremonies, the Nishiki Market. Some people like to rent kimonos and walk around town. As per my experience, this audience was largely limited to white British women in their 50s.

In addition to the above, you must:

Rent a bike. It’s one of my favorite things I did in Japan.

Be open to skipping the Bamboo Forest. I know I know, it’s on all the lists!! But the truth is, it’s a sardine can of sweaty tourists and that’s the reason every single photo of this forest is an upwards shot. The town around it is an overcrowded tourist trap. On the bright side, the bike ride there was very nice!

Nara — must go! Not really for the deer, but for the old city and even the modern part. It’s got so much character and personality. In fact, if it’s feasible, I wouldn’t tell you NOT to spend a night here.

Buy overpriced strawberries if in season. A small pack was US$12. THEY TASTED LIKE STRAWBERRIES! The way they tasted when we were kids!

Where to eat:

Kuzushi Kotowari — excellent and very-well priced omakase experience. Japan is made for solo dining, so why not make it fancy.

Moshimoya — I loved this place. It’s an almost-hidden izakaya on an alley street. You aren’t allowed to use your phone or take pictures inside. I ate Lilly bulbs here, they were delicious. It feels like a converted sailor’s haunt.

Ronmador — this is a requirement. The couple that runs it are the most beautiful in Japan. It’s a graceful and quaint cafe with perfect drip coffee and ancient donuts made in a variety of ways. If I may be so dramatic, it’s one of my favorite places — IN THE WORLD.

Where to stay:

A ryokan, which is a traditional Japanese inn where you sleep on a futon mattress on the floor.

I stayed in Kyomachiya Ryokan Sakura Urushitei. I liked the location and the space, but I had no idea how to make the bed and they don’t do it for you. It might sound silly, but it’s weirdly not easy to make a Japanese bed….? Especially not after a carafe of sake.

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